Another total winner: I am loving the Moneta dress by Colette patterns! You can find my first two versions here.
As I think I’ve mentioned, I’ve been a bit short on sewing time recently (understatement?) but on Sunday I was able to sew up TWO of these fine dresses. Ignoring my current fabric stash (including all the merino wanting to keep me warm) I took a trip to The Fabric Warehouse on Saturday where I found some awesome patterned ponti’s, which seems to be incredibly rare in these parts.
A pre-wash and a dry in the sun and they were ready to go (although, probably I should have put it in the dryer so I won’t have any more shrinking mishaps should someone accidentally put them through. Next time!).
I honestly think I could have an entire wardrobe of these. Maybe people would notice, but who cares? They’re so quick to make up, look amazing, and don’t use a heck of a lot of fabric. I made this out of 1.5m of fabric (~140cm wide) even though the pattern calls for 2.4m of fabric – and this is lengthened from the original pattern. The lining and pockets for this version are made from scraps of fabric left over from my Mabel skirt.
This dress was so straightforward to make. I had already lengthened the skirt (I don’t like just-above-the-knee skirts) although I gave this a 4.5cm hem to bring it to the perfect height. Because of some neckline gape in my last two versions, I removed some – but not quite enough, apparently. It does appear that I need to take a dart out of the bust (tutorial here. The issue is more prominent in my next dress), and I think I have to shorten the bodice back – the elastic waist sits a bit too low for me (I’m stupidly conscious of it and I think this is half the reason I wear belts, so the waist sits at the perfect place!) and in photos I can now see some excess fabric. You can also see the waist dropping down at the back, which I think is probably due to my faux-sway back (caused by a big booty). I wonder if it’s worth cutting and sewing again, or just wearing it with a belt.
Y’all should know I wear my clothes before getting time photograph them; I wore this on my 15 hour shift yesterday, hence the wrinkles. I also got a great compliment from one of the ED doctors (who wear grey scrubs) “You look much too bright to be in here!” which I always take as a good sign, especially at 10.30 at night.
I would like to clear something up: a few people have completely ommitted the pockets from this dress without trying them out first. Of course it’s up to you, but I would encourage people to try them first, removing them if you really hate them – I’m not a big fan of pockets in knit dresses (my Tiramisu dress looked crazy) but these do quite well at staying hidden. From the side you can see them peeking through (probably largely to do with the different fabric used) but they don’t make my hips look larger than they are, at least, and they are COZY.
Especially when it’s damn cold in the morning as you’re walking to the bus stop. In the dark. Frosty. Brr.
Construction details: almost all of this is made on my overlocker. Which, annoyingly, seems to have a problem: the locking stitch must be too loose so when you pull the seams it looks like a ladder. I tried fiddling around with it but wasn’t able to fix it; hopefully resetting the tensions and re-threading from scratch will do the trick. Or putting on a heavier spool of thread, perhaps.
The bodice is lined with a black knit. Sleeves and hem are top-stitched with a too-narrow twin needle, which looks fine and has no tunneling (I have discovered that winding on the bobbin slowly/not at a cracking pace loosens the tension of the bobbin and reduces tunneling). I am annoyed by the pinching in the hem but I don’t look at that when I’m wearing it, so stuff it.
Pattern: Moneta by Colette Patterns
Fabric: Nylon/Viscose/Lycra knit from The Fabric Warehouse, 1.5 = $27
Notions: Elastic and thread, stash
With regards to the elastic – I haven’t got any clear elastic, but have HEAPS of 8mm wide white elastic, which I’ve used for all four versions (the fourth one will be posted in a few days). I thought this was awfully clever of me BUT I think you actually need the stiffness of the clear elastic that the pattern calls for, to keep the waist really snug – I have found mine loosening up significantly due to the weight of the skirt. If you do use a stretchier elastic, make it quite a lot snugger than the pattern suggests.